The road to Rajbaga Beach (South Goa-India)

Exploring South Goa-Part 2- The Space And The Road to Talpona

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This is a series on exploring South Goa, and continues from Part-1

After a slow and heavy breakfast, I proceeded to the beach bed, to ponder on where should I drive to today. Agonda’s palms had a great breeze but the internet signals were yet to make its inroads into this village. Like most remote places, it has a BSNL internet connection which was probably 1 MBPS shared between the whole community of guests, so I gave up on the internet especially at a time when everyone was awake.

By the time, I got ready filling in fuel and buying sun-cream for the trip, Nandu was as usual running amok within the home we were staying. He had taken a liking to Manny’s toys and was running all over the sand, and falling and jumping in the sand. Whichever advert person said ‘Daag Achhe Hain’

Nandu running about in 'Manveer's Kitchen'
Nandu running about in ‘Manveer’s Kitchen’

I roughly knew that from Agonda, I had to get to a state highway that would connect me to Rajbaga, Talpona and then Galjibaga. It was not more than 15-20 kilometres on what would be part road-part mud path.

It felt good to not depend on technology and ask humans to explore a part of Goa, I had not previously been to. I decided that I had almost the whole of the day, and I was in no hurry to rush through my trip.

The options I had were to go right from the resort and head to the sweet water lake in Agonda, Go left and reach the little hill on the left, Go north to Cabo De Rama and Majorda, or Go south and explore. I had heard about turtle hatching in Galjibaga, but found nothing on my internet research so decided that it piqued me enough to just go and land up there.

I started driving through the little road that connects to the Agonda church where one has to turn left to follow the palms all the way to the entrance of Leopard Valley (South Goa’s niche open air party destination apart from Palolem’s Neptune Point).ย  I passed through Fatima’s shop, which I earmarked from my previous trip to Agonda, telling my family that we must come here for our lunch.

The road that I was driving through had the late morning sun shine down, making me sweat more as I drove ahead. After ambling slowly for about 5 kilometres, we stopped at a place that exuded hippy vibes and looked colourful. I thought it may be okay to fill in on a little brunch, as we end up relaxing a bit and looking around the place.

Brunch at ‘The Space’

It looked like it was an artsy place, with a higher price point for their vegan brunch dishes. The place had an aura of a close knit community that held classes in a rustic but chic old Goan home. The place welcomed people with an art installation, that had water flowing, and the sound of water flowing has a very calming effect on the vibes of a place. Nandu, was attracted to the water fountain almost immideately after we ordered our food, which came about 45 minutes later. Goan service is pretty Sussegaad and laid back as expected.

Nandu playing around with the water fountain at 'The Space' in Goa
Nandu playing around with the water fountain at ‘The Space’ in Goa
The Space(Devbag) has an Old-Goa rustic and chic look to it
The Space(Devbag) has an Old-Goa rustic and chic look to it
Flea Market like items at 'The Space'-Goa
Flea Market like items at ‘The Space’-Goa

We waited for our brunch and desert to dig in slowly, until the bill came. I still did not have any Airtel signal, and proceeded to ask people on Galjibaga which very few people had probably heard of. I revised my next statement to which is the road that takes me into south of Palolem, to which I had a long winded answer. I assumed I understood what I heard and discarded whatever was said, since a minute later I was more confused than I was clear.

Nandu 'brunching' at 'The-Space(Goa)'
Nandu ‘brunching’ at ‘The-Space(Goa)’

After meandering a bit, I finally found the mud road, which I presumed was the path. I had on my plans the following beaches. Rajbaga, Talpona and Galjibaga

The Mudpath to South Goa
The Mudpath to South Goa

Why Talpona?

Why this route you may ask? When I had come from the passenger train that stopped at Cancona, an image of a beautiful place passed me when Goa had been entered. This view stayed in my mind. I later figured out that this was the Galjibag river that cuts across the turtle beach. I did not see any tourist on the beach from about 200 metres, when the train passes this view. I wanted to see if such pristine beaches exist, and if so can Nandu and I play running and catching on the whole beach. So a beach had been spotted from the train. The point now was to be able to get between the trees and see the train track from there. Would it be possible to locate? Lets find out.

Gajjibaga as seen from the Passenger train to Cancona
Gajjibaga as seen from the Passenger train to Cancona
Galjibaga Beach-Google Map
Galjibaga Beach-Google Map

Finding Rajbaga

I started driving, though a little unsure about where I was heading, and after a couple of wrong routes, I found the road to Rajbaga beach. The beach looked like it had some height between the point where the beach was and the point where the waters started, since the beach sloped down. There were shacks at the centre of the beach serving food and having beach toys for children. It looked like a beach that was meant for the guests of the ‘Lalit Hotel’ as there were very little people on the beach. There are only some 4-5 other hotels/homestays nearby, so this was not a beach on the popular circuit.

The road between Rajbaga beach and 'The Lalit' Hotel
The road between Rajbaga beach and ‘The Lalit’ Hotel

The greens on the sides, were so beautiful. The greens get amplified by the winter sun into a greenish yellow tinge, and when there is some morning chill still left in the air, the mind percieves this as the ‘promised land’ that the travel magazines left you to find for yourself.

The road to Rajbaga Beach (South Goa-India)
The road to Rajbaga Beach (South Goa-India)
Opposite the beach are the lawns of the 'Lalit Golf and Spa Resort'
Opposite the beach are the lawns of the ‘Lalit Golf and Spa Resort’

We had some french fries, spent some time in the beach, bought some baloons and beach toys for Nandu before we checked his energy levels for the remaining part of the trip. He seemed exuberant and all ready to get on the road to Galjibaga. More coming up in Part-3

If you have directly landed here, please checkย Part-1

As with any beach, Nandu keeps jumping around!
As with any beach, Nandu keeps jumping around!

So far we have driven from Agonda to Rajbag beach. The following part will have the drive through Talpona to Galjibaga.

Rajbagh Beach in South Goa- Map
Rajbagh Beach in South Goa- Map picked from Google Maps


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59 thoughts on “Exploring South Goa-Part 2- The Space And The Road to Talpona”

    1. Hey Kelly! No. I dont use any presets. At the most I only crop images for the frame, or play around with contrast and white balance on Lightroom. Thanks for your feedback on the images! I love your photos on Thailand!

    1. He some time back said ‘ he loves tripping’ and I manage to make some time out for some trips that we can enjoy. Hope he stays this way. I love observing what he talks and how he understands the world.

  1. A pristine beach off of the tourist track sounds delightful!! I would love to start my day with a delicious vegan brunch at such a beautiful place like The Space and then look at the scenery on your drive. Such a lovely trip so far:)

  2. very true Karthick. Guess it’s time to pack and visit Goa. It’s been more than 10 years I’m planning but not yet visited Goa.

  3. As your tagline says “It’s a small world!”, I really believe that. Especially your pictures are so expressive, I feel like I am already there although I have never been to Goa. But now Goa is so high up on my bucket list for touring inside India ๐Ÿ™‚

  4. Your photos are incredible. They definitely make me want to travel more. I never thought about visiting Goa but from the sound and looks of it, itโ€™s beautiful.

  5. I have been to this part of the world and the way you describe it is exactly correct! Great information and pictures, will help any first timer, enjoyed your post.

  6. Goa is always a good place to go to. I love the route to Rajbaba Beach. Sometimes, it’s good to stay disconnected and take a break from technology. That’s when you enjoy your real life the most. Cheers!!

    1. Have you been to Rajbaga Beach Aditi? Actually, it can get a little complex asking people. Having a phone with map laid out is useful since there are so many diversions and small roads. If I landed there today, I’d struggle all over again.

  7. I think based on what you shared, it is easy to fall in love with Goa. The place looks splendid. I hope to visit Goa someday.

  8. Love th e little pathway you photographed of Nandu running in Manveer’s Kitchen. Goa is on our list, we have been to India but never had the chance to go south or souther to Mumbai. Will not your path and try to do the same as everything you stumbled looks amazing.

  9. I can see why you chose talpona. The beach looks so unspoiled. We actually stayed in South Goa on our last trip there and totally loved it. The beaches are so less crowded compared to the northern counterparts and they are cleaner. The surroundings also appear to be greener

  10. I’ve been to North Goa twice but haven’t discovered much of the southern part yet. Your post is very informative and the amazing pictures are compelling me to explore South Goa. It looks more calm, green and rustic. Thanks for sharing this lovely post! ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. Hey Shaily. Take your time and travel slowly down south. South is less crowded and if you have a 2 wheeler, you can explore a lot of the parts of Goa, that are yet to be invaded by the tourists (while we too are)

  11. I love South Goa as much as I love North Goa. The beaches of Palolem, Agonda, and Patnem are so serene and quite. It has an understated charm unlike any other place in India. The road to Rajbaga beach looks so typical Goa. Gorgeous!

    1. Thanks Abhinav! Palolem is beautiful but on long weekends and public holidays it starts to exude a calangute like crowded vibe, but the south is beautiful. I have not yet been to Patnem. Maybe next time,

  12. Ahhh, beautiful, classical Goa! A must-visit destination in my opinion. Had to go back to Part 1 and read it from the beginnning. I love the sense of a close knit community – I love to travel slow and really experience the local way of living. The Rajbaga beach seems really a quaint, nice beach, I love the fact that it wasn’t that crowded. So nice with shacks at the middle of the beach serving snacks as well! I would love to visit this part of India, this post has been very inspirational!

    1. Thanks Ann. The best is yet to come in parts 3,4 and 5. Thanks for your feedback on the blog. Rajbaga is good, but Talpona and Galjibag which lay ahead were far more laid back and relaxed.

  13. And your adventure continues. Goa is beautiful in its simplicity. Do you always drive when you travel? I hope to do this with my family soon. Drive outside the metro, explore new places on our own.

    1. Hi Ivan. Most of my trips with my son, I always drive for some part. I have done road trips with him, or take a train out to a place, where i then borrow/rent a vehicle for driving. Its our way of slowly exploring places

  14. I always call Goa India’s ‘Vegas’ because people love to go there for the parties and crazy life. But there’s so much more to Goa than just that, it’s beautiful and lush, has some amazing places to sit back and relax while enjoying nature, and so much history also!I’ve been there twice during my college days but need to visit again, for a very different purpose this time!

    1. Thanks Gel. It was my dream from a while to show him that the world is a really nice place if we connect to it. Television and media showcases too much negative vibes. Hence we travel!

  15. Mate, you have a very earthy style of writing which I love .
    A suggestion though- please enlarge your pictures so that the real beauty of your blog comes through.

    1. Thanks for your comment Swayam. I changed the blog layout recently since a lot of readers were coming from mobile. I will check on better themes that show the full image on a desktop, because even I agree that images being bigger adds to the charm of reading.

  16. Love Nandu’s candid shots. Too good! This is a great read. A Goa that more people need to talk about. A rustic Goa beyond the touristy shacks. The greenery of Goa is something to experience and I loved the tiny villages on the coastline. Each has a unique story and culture.

  17. South Goa is a personal favourite. Talpona is indeed a revelation. Goes to show that there are so many hidden gems in Goa,just waiting to be discovered in their pristine nature. Of course, we hope that many places retain their virginal beauty.

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