Finding Messi in Mallapuram

I have heard of Kerala being India’s football state (sharing the sobriquet with Goa and West Bengal). I travelled to Kerala’s football heartland in Malappuram district in the town of Perintalmanna to go watch a World Cup game in a style unique to this district.

Binary Choices in Malappuram District-Messi or Neymar
Binary Choices in Malappuram District-Messi or Neymar
Go Go Goal....Err. Not Quit
Go Go Goal….Err. Not Quit
Pre Match Practice for watching FIFA :-)
Pre Match Practice for watching FIFA ūüôā

The video has different sub parts

a) The journey to reach this town from South Kerala
b) Staying in a retiring room in Shoranur junction
c) Finding 2 buses to the place
d) Travel to 2 football grounds, put on jerseys and indulge in a bit of pre match play/banter
e) Get into the large temporary tent to watch the FIFA World Cup match between Argentina and France!

Messi was found and lost, as France won a thriller. Do watch the video to feel the raw energy and emotion of football is celebrated in Kerala. Kerala was no different from Kazan if you look at the post match celebrations!

Try watching the Football world cup, from India’s heartland of football-Malappuram. Simple joys of community watching and joy over goals, passes and yellow cards. Head over to Malappuram district this week, or if you can’t, thank me for this video. My Vlog on my trip to observe how Malappuram enjoys football and Messi

Watch the video story of this journey here or watch it below

The idea to travel here, was made after reading Sandeep Varma’s book and posts on a trip he made in 2010

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Part 5

This is the fifth in series of my trip to Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay in Mahabalipuram. I challenged a North Indian friend, who said there’s nothing to do near Chennai in the summers. I told him I could transform his life through experiences on a Saturday and Sunday. Lets dive in to the series! If you have landed directly here, Read Part-4, Part 3, Part 2, Part-1 and Part-0 for context!

Watch the Video series here

Labyrinthine Temple Bay

We wanted to proceed to the spa, late evening to check if we could pick a treatment. The resort is very big and at times labyrinthine to navigate, and we got slightly off path, where I went to the helipad, and then found my way to the Ayur Spa

Ola/Uber’s App Please

Since the resort is so big, we are at times, dependent on the ‘Buggy’ [electric vehicle that ferries guests]. One needs to pick a buggy by waving to a driver, if they are around, or call from the room phone or nearest centre to request for a buggy. An app like Uber/Ola for this could be too much, but it maybe a nifty feature to have a resort app to pass recommendations on activities around, and booking a buggy based on location. If you are not in a hurry like I was, the resort is a beautiful location amidst all the greenery and gardens to walk across from one place to the other

Bodhi Spa

Once we were at the Spa, we decided to check, what would be better for us. I loved the walkway which was a rectangular perimeter walkway with the centre being open to sky, and having plants and flowing water there. Flowing water has this ability to appeal to the mind to mute off your thoughts and stay still. The grey buddha statue there in the centre, just added to the feeling of time standing still on an edge. The Bodhi Spa in-charge, took us to a room, overlooking water falling on some stones, and introduced us to some of the treatments and therapy chambers (interestingly named after Indian plants like Thulasi and Ashwagandha). Since Tej was exhausted, he opted for a deep-tissue Mandara massage

Discussing treatments with the Spa Manager (Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay)
Discussing treatments with the Spa Manager (Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay)

I went to the Ayurveda side and saw the card, and opted for the Shirodhara oil massage. I loved the feeling of warm scented oil dripping on my forehead, building calmness in the mind and body, one drop at a time! The index of a good massage is how they are able to softly exert pressure on the right parts of the body, and be able to get your mind and body to meet in silence.  I slept during the course of the massage and went back to sleep more, after a quick pasta dinner over room service! For all the activity we did, the spa was quite the way to end the day

Zorb Attack!
Zorbing in the Pool
Zorbing in the Pool

In the morning, after a pleasant night’s sleep, by the bay of the bengal, we woke up and hit the beach, and then came down to the swimming pool in our shorts to the zorbing place by the pool. The Orb is a transparent plastic ball, within which you roll on water.

We were to get in through the hole, and then pace our steps in a synchronised manner, so that we would be able to move the orb in the water, but guess what- we struggled to get it moving. If one of us, paced a step early or late, we would both fall down, while the orb would rotate. More on all the fun inside the Orb, you should watch the video embedded in the post.

Wrap Up!

That makes it a wrap for our series! I hope you enjoyed it.

 

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Part 4

This is the fourth in series of my trip to Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay in Mahabalipuram. I challenged a North Indian friend, who said there’s nothing to do near Chennai in the summers. I told him I could transform his life through experiences on a Saturday and Sunday. Lets dive in to the series! If you have landed directly here, Read Part 3, Part 2, Part-1 and Part-0 for context!

Here’s the video story


If you want to read up stuff, here goes the blog post below

In Search of the Surfs in Mahabalipuram!

Tej walked out to the beach, eager to get himself acquainted with Surfing. He upped his swag with his dark glasses and shorts, intently feeling the wind as he made his way. Balaji, our guide from the resort, explained to Tej about certain precautions to take care. Tej could communicate well with Balaji, since they bonded well when we started with cycling.

Surfing in Mahabalipuram
Surfing in Mahabalipuram

Tej was asked to lie on the surf board with the head focussed towards the sea and in line with the surf board.  After the wave has been caught, the surfer has to use his hands, keeping it close to his chest, to pop up the body and suddenly stand on the surf board and maintain that position until the wave knocks him over (Beginners will keep getting knocked off)

Basic Surfing Lessons in Mahabalipuram
Basic Surfing Lessons in Mahabalipuram

Surfboard tied/strapped to the leg, Tej made his way into the sea. Watch the video to know more on how it went!

Lunch by the Beach with Chef Mike

Post all of the water activities, we were invited for lunch by Chef Mike, who asked us if we were okay to learn a bit of cooking. We thought this may be fun, so we went ahead and agreed. I donned the Apron and the hat, and saw how Chef Mike went about his business grilling vegetables, and marinating sea food (which was appetising to Tej). It was fun trying to observe a part of the food being cooked on the beach, by the view of the sea in their new revamped Wharf 2.0 restaurant.

Cooking with Chef Mike in Mahabalipuram
Cooking with Chef Mike in Mahabalipuram

In the initial few minutes most of my attention went to the disturbing effect the wind had on the apron, which made it fly, and I as using my hands to quell it down, just like Marilyn Monroe did to her skirt. Comical

My conversation with Chef Mike was on how different are the reactions from the customers when it comes to ordering, since a Menu card can only bring out so much, as opposed to the rich wealth of magic that a chef can customise for guests. ¬†He said that a lot of foreigners coming to India usually go by the ‘Catch of the day’ while Indians usually go for predictable food options like breads/roti. ‘Catch of the day’ usually is a Prawn plus mashed potatoes and Indian flavours like lemon garlic. The chef was very welcoming and showed us his kitchen and sat down with us as we faced the sea, talking about cooking and travelling.

Tej and I sat and gorged on some Paneer Tikkas and a couple of mocktails. One of the mocktails had more ice than drink in it, but the other one was compensating enough. After enough paneer and liquids had filled the stomach, it was time to head out a bit in the evening to go out into the city.

Sculpting in Mahabalipuram

We went to Mahabalipuram town to and explore Mahabalipuram’s sculpting scene by meeting Murugan, who was a sculptor who studied in the little town. Murugan was originally from Bhavani (near Erode in Tamil Nadu). ¬†He told us that business demand for sculpting work was down in the last 2 years. ¬†He manages to eke time out for commercial work as well as creative work. As we sit and talk, I notice various heads of famous yesteryear people. There’s a head of MGR (Kollywood actor and former chief minister of Tamil Nadu) and a head of M.G. Gandhi (India’s iconic freedom leader). I also figure out that Murugan’s body of work includes an impressive stint as one of the sculptors for the Adiyogi statue in Coimbatore, which was inaugurated by Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev in his Isha Yoga complex.

If you have read this far, there’s more in the video to know and sensorily feel the described experience.

To experience the same like we did, do sign up for the Summer Chillers program, and experience life’s finer moments packed into a weekend that could otherwise be spent waking up late ordering on Zomato, and getting stuck on a traffic jam. Is the choice not clear?

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Part 3

This is the third in series of my trip to Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay in Mahabalipuram. I challenged a North Indian friend, who said there’s nothing to do near Chennai in the summers. I told him I could transform his life through experiences on a Saturday and Sunday. Lets dive in to the series! If you have landed directly here, Read Part 2, Part-1 and Part-0 for context!

Here’s the video story

SCUBA Tales

Did you know that SCUBA was an acronym for Self-Contained-Underwater-Breathing-Apparatus? I had learnt this while taking my first diving lesson way back in Bangaram Island in Lakshadweep in 2009. I retained absolutely nothing from that dive as I would find out

 

SCUBA Basics at Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay-Mahabalipuram
SCUBA Basics at Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay-Mahabalipuram
Breathing Routine Change

To get into the water, I first had to wear the SCUBA Pro skin jacket. It needs someone to zip you from behind, and it feels quite tight. Black dress on a summer day in Chennai is not the recipe for relaxation at all, but I was to step in to the pool in just a few minutes. Rishabh from Temple Adventures was there to teach me the basics of SCUBA Diving. I had to put on an oxygen cylinder on my back, and a mask that had some space for my nose, and a little attachment that went in my mouth, having to tightly bite it. I now had to breathe in through the mouth and exhale out through my nose. It took a while to even set this in motion. It was even tougher trying to balance my legs as there are fins that are on your legs. That made me look extremely clumsy as i tried to balance myself, with an oxygen cylinder on my back. But with a little bit of patience, all is indeed well!

Lessons Underwater

My first lessons were around communicating the signs properly in water, now made famous as part of common folklore since Bollywood addressed this in 2011 with the feature film ‘Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara’

SCUBA Signs under water
SCUBA Signs under water

The next lessons were around clearing water that gets fogged up in the mask surrounding the nose, when water finds its way inside. The other basic lesson was around moving your hands in a way that you reach out for an extension that connects to your mouth, through which you breathe. This extension is connected to the Oxygen cylinder. You need to keep it an angle, else the air/oxygen gets released and wasted.

Deep Blue

Though it was bewitching inside, I could not quite breathe easily or swim easily. That’s when I asked the instructor if someone could dive without the cylinder. He spoke about free diving, and said that he could hold his breath for about 4 minutes inside the water.

Swimming in the pool
Swimming in the pool

I also learnt in my conversation with the instructor that Koh Tao is probably not the best place to go for SCUBA Open water dive courses, as there has been such a huge influx of tourists, that you are more likely to see humans than fishes there! i briefly thought about doing an Open water dive course, during my trip to Thailand last year around the Full Moon Party, but chose to rest after exploring town and Songkaran in Ko Tao

Summer Chillers

If you want to experience the same, as i did, do pick this package called the Summer Chillers, and learn a new way of life under water at Radisson Blur Resort Temple Bay, near Chennai.

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Part 2

This is the second in series of my trip to Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay in Mahabalipuram. I challenged a North Indian friend, who said there’s nothing to do near Chennai in the summers. I told him I could transform his life through experiences on a Saturday and Sunday. Lets dive in to the series! If you have landed directly here, Read Part-1 and Part-0 for context!

Getting to Breakfast

Soon after we finished cycling, we went over and had our breakfast at the Water’s edge cafe. It was a good spread, but we were late and needed to finish it before they close. One thing we observed was that due to the searing heat, seats near the glass area were less air-conditioned than the ones inoculated from the heat. The summer is usually un-relenting for a body that is not used to such heat, and we had to find a cozy corner where the effect of the sun, does not eat into the air-conditioning. ¬†I had a couple of fruit juices along with Idli/Dosa and bread for my breakfast.

All Terrain Vehicle Ride

I had told Tej about the ATV ride at the beach, and we wanted to go and try it out. Both of us were excited about speeding in the sand, and turning at angle, throwing mud in the air. Some primal things as a kid, stay in our memory and pop up while outdoors like our wish lists.

Tej kicking up a dust storm with the ATV Ride
Tej kicking up a dust storm with the ATV Ride
Things to be Aware
  • These ATV machines need a strong grip to get used to. That may take about 5 minutes as the hands bonds with the controls. My ATV seemed to be inclined to curve right as opposed to go straight.
  • Tej was a little stronger than me, and he loved the ride on the sand. He went quite fast on the sand, and won the competition to ride better! But hey, never forget to have fun!
Tej driving the ATV at Mahabalipuram
Tej driving the ATV at Mahabalipuram
  • Secondly, the real fear is when you drive fast, what if you lose control and get into the sea. If the ATV gets into the sea, it will be a problem, as such devices/cars are not supposed to be in salt water, while they can otherwise be driven on wet sand.
The Ride

Do watch and check how our ATV Ride went!

 

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Episode 1

This is the first in series of my trip to Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay in Mahabalipuram. I challenged a North Indian friend, who said there’s nothing to do near Chennai in the summers. I told him I could transform his life through experiences on a Saturday and Sunday. Lets dive in to the series!

Reaching Temple Bay

I really did not expect Tej to take a flight and come here, but he did. I  took him from the airport right to Mahabalipuram, through the scenic East Coast road, after pondering a bit over driving on Old Mahabalipuram Road, getting lost around Medavakkam and Sholinghanallur. We finally veered off the junction at Mahabalipuram, and I found the resort, standing tall like a colossus. It was easier to discover it a few years back, since it was the only quality resort back then, but now quite a few other hotels have sprung up on the East Coast Road, but none of the hotels have as much space and tranquility as Temple Bay. I know this since, I have been to most of the hotels on the ECR stretch, during Alumni meets organised by my B-School

Garlanded and Well Rested

We entered Mahabalipuram soon enough and were garlanded by the staff, and were taken on a tour of the facilities, before we were shown our room. The garlands were made of a beautifully ornate collection of sea shells.

Looks like the hotel was also hosting a North India wedding, as the hotel seemed full, and also the ‘Buggy Rides’ were available only a few minutes later, since guests were being ferried in large numbers.

Sea Side Vibes

The hotel being next to the sea, had a steady stream of fresh breeze coming and were nature cooled by all the spread of greenery all around. Our room was closer to the pool side restaurant, so we had a bit of walking to do to get to the sea.  We briefly went to the sea side, and found a bunch of people playing cricket. After sitting for a while, we went back to the cycling and activities point for our first activity, as part of the Summer Chillers program that we had signed up for, was cycling from the resort to the Shore temple

Beach side cricket! CSK Anyone?
Beach side cricket! CSK Anyone?

 

We decided to skip breakfast, and do the ride first and then come back for the breakfast. That way we enjoy what we eat and can really relax in after some body activity!

Tej and I prepare to cycle to the Shore Temple in Mahabalipuram
Tej and I prepare to cycle to the Shore Temple in Mahabalipuram

Cycling seemed like a connect with child hood, and there was enough breeze for it not to feel like it was tiring. We crossed the beautiful round-about within the resort, and soon arrived at the gates of the resort, before we were stopped by the security.

Cycling from Temple Bay to Shore Temple
Cycling from Temple Bay to Shore Temple

We told them that we were guests and this was part of the program, and then they let us ride out of the resort. It impressed me that they took the security of guests as very important, checking everyone who came in or went out.  I will leave you with the sensory experience of what I have told so far on video, so that you can visually join us on our trip, or decide to copy the same things for your own trip!

Get your own trip!

Ask for the Summer Chillers program, to do the same things like we did. What more did we do? Do watch the rest of the series

 

You Know What We Did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales | Trailer

A few weeks before, a friend of mine from Delhi, had reached out to me, and was asking about some place he could travel from Delhi over a weekend. His whole point was to travel out on a Friday and return to work on a Monday and be amazed in those 2 days.

Learning SCUBA basics in the Pool!
Learning SCUBA basics in the Pool!

Delhi’tes have the mountains above them, but don’t really have a beach. I knew if I could customise a nice beach experience with some activities, he’d probably go back feeling excited.

The beautiful Eastern Coast near Chennai
The beautiful Eastern Coast near Chennai

I told him to not worry so much, and told him I will keep him in air-conditioned comfort by the beach, and in a largely sylvan environment of greenery. My aim was to give him a bunch of experiences that only a sea town could provide and over just a weekend. So I met him on a Friday night at the Chennai airport and drove him down in my car to go show him that “Summers can be fun around Chennai’s coastline”

Cycling from Temple Bay to Shore Temple
Cycling from Temple Bay to Shore Temple

Presenting our next travel series titled ” You Know What We did This Summer? | Temple Bay Tales”, where I take my Delhi friend Tej to a series of activities where we rough up on the sand in an ATV, defy gravity in a Zorb, attain zen state over Shirodhara, Do some diving under water, Try sea side surfing in the morning, cycle our way to the shore temple and enjoy some sea side mocktails, learning how to fry veggies and fishes! All of this in a 48 hour weekend at Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay (as part of their Summer Chillers program)! I am sure when Tej landed in Delhi, he must have landed a little heavier thanks to the memories he gathered from the weekend!

Tej tries out the ATV ride at Mahabs
Tej tries out the ATV ride at Mahabs
Tej and I prepare to cycle to the Shore Temple in Mahabalipuram
Tej and I prepare to cycle to the Shore Temple in Mahabalipuram
Tej and I enjoying an evening of mocktails and food by 'The Wharf'
Tej and I enjoying an evening of mocktails and food by ‘The Wharf’

Here’s the trailer! The main series premieres from May 16th ¬†in a 5 episode all month long on Katchutravels! Let me know how you found it!

The Ultimate Guide To the Velas Turtle Festival-Part 2

The Velas Turtle Festival is one of India’s premier destinations (apart from Orissa) for viewing the Olive ridley turtles hatch and head to the sea. The conducive environment created on the beach, helps female turtles trust and leave its eggs on this beach for it to hatch. The turtle conservation program also helps in everyone in this area being aligned to preserving and conserving turtles. It’s also India’s first formal program to stay in villages with the locals and then watch the turtles head out into the sea from the observatory.

This is Part 2. If you have come here directly, there was a Part-1 and a Part-0 too. Do have a look at the series before you start this.

Here’s an option if you are feeling lazy to thumb through the post in images.

  • The post and the video will have different content though the end story is the same.
  • The post talks about my experience and thoughts, while the video has the most important elements captured on camera from various angles
  • Only the video has elements on the history of the Velas Turtle Festival in an interview with Hemant Saldurkar- The organiser of the festival.
  • If I were you, I would watch the video and read further to let the mind check if what you imagined is the same as what I have written about to get a complete picture of what to expect if you are planning a trip to Velas.
Post Dinner on Day 1

I had a very fulfilling dinner, and also noticed that Nandu had eaten a little more than he does at home. I felt satisfied that he had adjusted to the place and was feeling comfortable.

After watching the documentary, he kept running around the house with some of the other kids, and at some point, he was forced to sleep, since the lights were switched off for everyone to sleep.

Some of the folks from Travel Trikon travel group, were playing some game sitting in a circle. I was ready to sleep, since it was beyond my sleeping time at 2130 back home.

Mats out on the mud flooring at Milind's Homestay-Velas Village (Maharashtra)
Mats out on the mud flooring at Milind’s Homestay-Velas Village (Maharashtra)

I was sleeping next to the biker couple from Mumbai, who kept getting up showing some signs of discomfort. I later realised that some of the mosquitoes were troubling them. I had slept with my jeans pant and did not have a problem as such luckily. The house had about 20 people sleeping in the portico of the house, by the mud floor. My only requirement, getting up, was to make sure my devices were charged and I could walk and find my slippers to either go drink water or to to the toilet, which was behind the house. I seemed to have a peaceful sleep, except for getting up a few times and finding my throat showing signs of catching cold. I just prayed and went back to sleep, hoping I would not fall ill.

In such places, under the stars and in a community environment, I tend to sleep deep, but I am also very cognisant of what is happening around me. I woke up without the need to switch my alarm on. I had woken up at about 5 am, after sleeping at 11 pm the pevious night, well rested and ready for the day ahead. It helps to wake up early when you have 2 toilets and 50 people who may compete for it. As soon as I was done with my ablutions, a state transport bus blared its horns and brought the morning load of tourists from Mumbai before the break of dawn. I just had to get my son to use the toilet before the queue started to build.

Milind and his helpers started serving tea, while a large portion of people were still asleep. Some of the portico lights were on. It was already 6 am. I hurried into packing my bag for the morning jaunt, which I heard was around 2 kilometres of walk to the Turtle hatchery.

Walking to the Hatchery

If I had known, that I could take my car and park it there, I would have taken the offer, but the lure of walking slowly through town and keeping an eye out for absorbing the beauty of the town at the crack of dawn. Walking with us were a couple of bird watchers, who were telling Nandu on what to observe. Nandu looked like he was listening and then proceeded to shift his attention elsewhere.

We were walking without actually knowing the route. There were a bunch of people also walking, but each of us without knowing the route managed to just copy each other and we reached a point, where there was a bridge.

If you had a car, you would park here, and get down from the bridge by the steps and then walk on a pathway to the beach.

The Parking spot on the bridge
The Parking spot on the bridge

This is a kilometre of walk with barren land on one side, and mangroves on the other.

Long Walk from the car park to the Turtle Hatchery at Velas Beach [Maharashtra-India]
Long Walk from the car park to the Turtle Hatchery at Velas Beach [Maharashtra-India]
After about 40 minutes we reached the beach, just in time for the morning hatchery procedures. I saw a team of 3-4 people who had gone near the sea to erect temporary structures which serves as boundary. I heard the team was a new team in place, since the earlier organiser Mr Upadhyay had moved to Anjarle (a village 2 hours away) to set up a new turtle hatchery there. The new team had taken a little more time than usual, is what I heard and they made their way back to the hatchery.

Morning Turtle Hatchery

As I settled around a corner, the organisers went in the hatchery, which is covered by a wire mesh on all 4 sides. It was like they went into a ring/den to communicate with their brethren. The crowd was gnawing at the wire mesh, trying to somehow not get a human or a wire in our view to see the turtle. It was here for these fleeting moments that the organisers felt like people with super powers. They come and do this twice a day, and at some point, I don’t even think they are having this thought that they have more access than the commoners. It’s their job and livelihood while the rest of us are here for amusing and entertaining our boorish selves.

With every basket they lift, there is either a chorus of disappointment or joy depending on whether a turtle made its way up in the soil to the top of the beach sand under the basket or whether it did not.

The Turtle Run

Once the turtles have hatched, then the organisers quickly wind up proceedings at the hatchery. They let each of the baby turtles get on to a bag, which is placed inside a basket and they transport them to the portion of the beach where they had erected the temporary chained boundaries.  The tourists watch them getting inside the sea.

Semi circular line for watching the Turtles go to sea!
Semi circular line for watching the Turtles go to sea!

The turtles are under intense scrutiny, as scores of SLR totting photographers are bending backwards to get the right angle, while some parents are doing a live video call with their brethren back home. That serves a mild reminder that 4G signals probably come at the beachThe experience ends with that, until it re- starts in the evening, which I enjoyed even more since more turtles came about

Google Maps- That Thing Turtles Don’t Use

The interesting thing to note is that years later, the turtles (if they are alive) find their way back to the same beach of their birth. I’ve heard that fascinating story to be amazed on how the turtles can find their way to exactly the same beach. The turtles use the invisible lines of the magnetic field. Humans at sea would probably use a compass or Google Maps to navigate their way, but turtles don’t need any navigation help. It is the same magnetic field signature that each place retains, which also helps the turtle find its way home. Here is a mathematical paper and article explaining the turtle movement according to the magnetic field.

We Make Babies, Not Family

I found it a little deviant behaviour, that a turtle lays its eggs and does not stay for its babies birthing or does not even know its babies, since it just seems to come and lay eggs. I am not sure a turtle ever can identify who its family are. Can it? If you know something about it, do comment.

Evening Run at the Hatchery

Our evening run was more fruitful. For one it was relaxed. We had seen turtles in the morning, so there was not this angst that this may be our last session (since we still had a session the next morning). This time, owing to the heat, Nandu and I drove in the car, and parked it some distance away from the parking spot, and walked our way to the hatchery.

The feeling when a turtle shows up when the basket is lifted is pure sense of elation. Its as if we are communally celebrating the birth of every turtle we see.

When Nandu got bored, he decided to jump into the sea!
When Nandu got bored, he decided to jump into the sea!

Once the turtles are taken into the wetter part of the beach, closer to the sea, it seems that the turtles have this pressure to go run and perform, but they don’t quite care about their new found celebrity status.

Turtles-Celebrity Life at Birth
Turtles-Celebrity Life at Birth
Turtle Finding its way into the sea!
Turtle Finding its way into the sea!
Sunset at Velas
Sunset at Velas

As the sun gave way to the moon, and the chill evening breeze started during our walk back, I could not help think of a perfect song for the evening mood

“Yeh Raatein Yeh Mausam, Nadi Ka Kinara, Yeh Chanchal Hawa”

“Yeh Kya Baat Hain, Aaj Ki Chandni Mein, Ki Hum Who Gaye”

Nandu holding a mobile light against his face, as we walk back under the full moon light to our parking spot
Nandu holding a mobile light against his face, as we walk back under the full moon light to our parking spot

By the time, we made our way back to car park, Nandu and I were tired. The walk also felt longer due to the number of people ahead of us and the fact that we were walking slowly, owing to a huge group in front of us. As we made our way to the car park, we noticed that a villager, had set up a mobile bhelpuri stall catering to the hunger pangs of the mass of tourists. Saturday evenings are probably the most crowded evenings in a week, during the season. I was tempted to try it out, but I realised I had not taken my purse, since I had worn my swimming trunks to the beach, knowing Nandu might jump into the waters, and I need to be around to have a safety watch around him. No Bhelpuri, but in a few minutes we would have the divine dinner, that was waiting for us at Milind’s home stay.

The Ultimate Guide To the Velas Turtle Festival-Part 1

The Velas Turtle Festival is one of India’s premier destinations (apart from Orissa) for viewing the Olive ridley turtles hatch and head to the sea. The conducive environment created on the beach, helps female turtles trust and leave its eggs on this beach for it to hatch. The turtle conservation program also helps in everyone in this area being aligned to preserving and conserving turtles. It’s also India’s first formal program to stay in villages with the locals and then watch the turtles head out into the sea from the observatory.

Day-1

Here‚Äôs an option- if you are feeling lazy to thumb through the post in images, here’s a link to the Vlog.

  • The post and the video will have different content though the end story is the same.
  • The post talks about my experience and thoughts, while the video has the most important elements captured on camera from various angles
  • Only the video has elements on the history of the Velas Turtle Festival in an interview with Milind Nijsure ( who runs the homestay)
  • If I were you, I would watch the video and read further to let the mind check if what you imagined is the same as what I have written about to get a complete picture of what to expect if you are planning a trip to Velas.
Zoom Car Economics

I booked a Zoomcar from Pune to get things started, after flying in earlier in the morning. Zoomcar has a pretty good procedure for renting its cars right from the Pune Airport(Extra 180 Rs as opposed to picking up the car from their Viman Nagar workshop). I remember taking a slow video of the car just to have an idea of dents (if any). I got an old Maruti Swift, as part of their compact car stable. Pune to Velas was about 190 kilometres. I did some calculation that I veer off a bit on day 2, and about 100 extra kilometres, I would roughly drive for about 500 kilometres. As a result I chose their base plan (8800 INR for 310 kms and INR 12 for every extra kilometre) as opposed to their other plan of INR 12400 for 620 kilomtres. I ended up doing 410 kilometres on the 3 day round trip, amounting to an extra 100 km(1200 INR) at the time of returning the vehicle. This included the cost of fuel (Diesel) which I never had to fill. I was told by Zoomcar staff, that their weekend prices are higher. If I had done this trip on a weekday, it would have cost me half. Point noted.  Additionally Zoomcar had a fine of 2500 everytime, you crossed 120 kmph. I thought it was a good scheme to make people drive their cars safer.

Feedback for Zoomcar– I ended up getting an old, and slightly dirty car. The air in the tyres looked suspect, as there was one part of the front tire that looked like a lump. A car mechanic, on the highway asked me to go slow, since that lump was suspect. The last thing I want is worry on a 3 day trip with flights out of Pune. Otherwise, the car was in good working condition.

The Drive

Once I reached Wakad, I had two options. I could either drive halfway to Mumbai and take a U Turn on a highway near Imagica Water Park, or I could take a left from Wakad (Outer Pune) on the state highway through the Tamhini Ghats. I chose the latter owing to a single road going almost all of the way till a village 30 km before Velas. I drove at about 30-70 kmph speed, owing to the fact that either the roads were small-potholed or these were curvy ascending paths into the hills.

The Mulshi Lake near Tamhini Ghat-Maharashtra
The Mulshi Lake near Tamhini Ghat-Maharashtra

The drive through Tamhini Ghats is beautiful, and I am told that in the monsoons, its even more beautiful. The Mulshi lake is one big lake, that takes a while to traverse, and there were signs advising people not to step into the marshy exteriors of the lake owing to snakes/crocodiles in the vicinity. ¬†I stopped a few times, as I felt sleepy on the highway and for once, I stopped owing to the beautiful view of the sun’s rays on the Arabian sea. This was near Harihareshwar, viewed from a hill drive!

Beautiful View of the Konkan Coast-Harihareshwar
Beautiful View of the Konkan Coast-Harihareshwar

 

So after ¬†about 4 ‘Chai’ breaks, I called Milind Nijsure (The Homestay owner at Velas), to ask about the route. Thank god, I did. I figured out that there is another Velas beach called Velas Agar which was the wrong place that I was heading towards. He asked me to find my way to Bagmandala- a ferry port

On my way to Bagmandala, I discovered that for large parts of these coastal tracts there were muslim settlements. I found that strange, since I thought coastal places, back in the days were invaded by westerners, and as a result Christianity on the coast got introduced in India. I don’t quite know, how so many people from a Muslim background came here. It would be interesting to know how they peregrinated here. In case you know, please do leave a comment!

Bagmandala Ferry Run
View of the Bagmandala ferry through my car
View of the Bagmandala ferry through my car

We had to slowly meander our way through a potholed road to arrive at the Bagmandala ferry. I went and purchased tickets. Rs 150 for loading the car into the ferry, and Rs 6 for each person. The view was beautiful but the impending action was scary. I had to do a reverse, and get down the slope to get into the ferry, and I had developed a neck strain from sleeping in a bad position on the morning flight, so I asked the ferry guy, if I could not do the reverse and drive into the ferry. He smiled and said, then I would have to do a reverse up the slope at the Velas/Bankot side of the ferry. I agreed, trying to postpone the inevitable. I thought, let me enjoy the ferry ride atleast. My friends Mehul and Ashfaq from Mumbai had recommended the ferry. As soon as I had parked the car inside the ferry, I was asked to come and sandwich the car between 2 heavy vehicles. Behind me was another heavy vehcile.  Checkmate! Stuck in the car for the rest of the ferry journey with no view, except that off the 3 heavy vehicles around me.

Jammed on all sides in the Bagmandala Ferry
Jammed on all sides in the Bagmandala Ferry
Vehicles behind me and front of me in the Bagmandala Ferry
Vehicles behind me and front of me in the Bagmandala Ferry

On the return journey, after a 10 minute ferry ride, I had my toughest test. Reversing the car on an incline upwards. Murphy’s law ¬†will make sure that there will be one irritant person on a bike who does not move an inch, despite the honking. Those few moments tested my patience as a driver.

On the Road to Velas

The road post that is a small road, with inclines into a small town at Bankot, and from there on a mud road on the lower part of the cliff, overlooking the Arabian Sea. I got a lorry coming in the opposite direction, and I again had to go reverse down an incline and turn left, so as to allow the lorry to pass by. The local heavy vehicle drivers, don’t like giving way to other tourist cars. Maybe its a racial thing, with the bigger the size of your vehicle, the bigger is your ego while on the road. I struggled to get up on the road again, despite going on first gear, as the vehicle did not get enough momentum to go up and it went going down. I asked for help, and a couple of locals, helped put a stone behind my back tyre, so that helped me go up. Thank god for small mercies!

We then passed the sea, and it was beautiful driving past the sea on one side, as we slowly rode on whatever was left on the path.

View of the route by the sea to Velas Village (from the car)
View of the route by the sea to Velas Village (from the car)
Aerial View of the route by the sea to Velas Village
Aerial View of the route by the sea to Velas Village

We reached Milind’s house in a short while, but we did stop a few times. The GPS went kaput after a while, due to a lag, and I was not exactly sure of Milind’s house, since once you enter the village, the road is small, and you have no room for a U turn, unless you go some distance, and there are vehicles constantly on the move, so it could mean developing some patience.

Home! Home! Home!
Reaching Milind's House-Velas Village
Reaching Milind’s House-Velas Village

I felt a chest thumping ‘Yabba Dabba Do’, as soon as Milind confirmed his house. I had to park it temporarily at an angle in front of Milind’s car, until a state transport bus came by and thundered for it to be removed. The best parking spots were behind and they were all taken. I had an instant connection with Milind’s house, owing to the mud flooring, and a portico. I went there and marked a portion of the portico, near the hay area to keep my slippers and luggage.

Milind's House Portico. My Luggage is right beside the hay
Milind’s House Portico. My Luggage is right beside the hay

Nandu found a few kids, and started to run around the house through all its rooms creating noise all around the house. This is exactly the kind of vacation I wanted. It was unravelling layer by layer and I was happy with what I saw. No AC, No room television (Milind has a TV with a Tata sky connection, but that’s more so to show documentary of the turtle conservation to people in the evening), No mobile signals. It was probably my 5th trip in less than 18 months with these parameters. (The previous ones being Flying Elephants in Andamans, Jagale Homestay in Coorg, Manveer’s Kitchen in Agonda(Goa), Sandeep’s homestay in Kerim-Terekhol(Goa) and now at Velas

Documentary Screening at Milind’s Home

Every evening when guests are there, Milind switches on his TV and plays a documentary on the Velas Turtle Conservation. It helps build context with the tourists that the focus of their trip is eco tourism and not enjoyment tourism. Out of the videos screened, i found parts of it on Youtube done by Shivani Mulekar and Sahyadri Nisarg Mitra

Documentary Screening at Milind Nijsure's house
Documentary Screening at Milind Nijsure’s house

I happened to meet a biker couple (Apoorv and Jennifer) and was speaking with them about the festival. Apoorv had already been in the evening to the beach, and was showing me some fabulous clicks of crabs on his SLR. I had reached Velas and missed the evening turtle hatchery session.

Life was beautiful and content! Dinner was starting to be served!

Dinner being served at Velas (Maharashtra-India)
Dinner being served at Velas (Maharashtra-India)

To read Part-2 head here

Picking your homestay
  1. I stayed at Milind Nijsure’s homestay, and it cost me around 3300 for 2 adults and a child- including stay and food (2 dinner, 2 Breakfast, 2 Lunches) from a Friday evening to Sunday Afternoon (3 pm).

You could call Milind at +91-8149753863 to plan your stay. He has dormitory rooms or separate rooms.

2.  I had visited the homes of Hemant and Sawant. You could book their homestay by calling the following numbers

Hemant/Priyanka Bhole- +91-9763795605

Sawant- (Number to be added)

Landline numbers of other homestay owners

Name Contact No. (Velas STD Code: 02350)
Mrs. Kavita Bagkar 220682
Ms. Priyanka Bhole 220689
Mr. Swapnil Dhareepkar 220562
Mr. Prakash Joshi 220570
Mr. Santosh Joshi 220511
Mr. Abhijit Kulabkar 220694
(M) 8975939484
Mr. Sham Kulabkar 220594
Mr. Siddhesh Kulabkar 220695/8446848540
Mr. Omkar Nijasure 220329 / 28 / 25

83083 60387

Mr. Milind Nijsure 220629/9421188487
Mr. Sameer Padlekar 220693/8652541817
Mr. Mandar Palshetkar 220674
Ms. Namrata Palshetkar 220674/9702400085/

8655891918

Mr. Nandkishor Patil 220561
Mr. Surendra Patil 220351/9225144816/

8805483264

Mr. Subodh Saldurkar 8975633185/7743830532
Mr. Amol soman 220279/9403574183
Mr. Ameya Srivardhankar 220543/673468839/9922534184/7350414759
Mr. Mohan Upadhye 220304/8975622778/

8983767388

Mr. Avinash Yadav 220545
 These members serve pure vegetarian food

The Ultimate Guide to the Velas Turtle Festival-Part 0

 

The Velas Turtle Festival is one of India’s premier destinations (apart from Orissa) for viewing the Olive ridley turtles hatch and head to the sea. The conducive environment created on the beach, helps female turtles trust and leave its eggs on this beach for it to hatch. The turtle conservation program also helps in everyone in this area being aligned to preserving and conserving turtles. It’s also India’s first formal program to stay in villages with the locals and then watch the turtles head out into the sea from the observatory.

 

It was early February in 2018, when I heard about the Velas Turtle Festival. ¬†When I put the place ‘Velas’ on Google Maps, I realised that this was a place that was closer to Bombay or Pune, and was not a place to easily get to if you were from the Southern Part of India, unless you boarded a west coast super fast express that would stop in Ratnagiri.

Pune to Velas-Google Maps Information
Pune to Velas-Google Maps Information

Why Velas?

I wanted to take Nandu there, and see for himself, in an organised program of how turtle conservation happens, and as has been the theme since last year, I have preferred to take him to places without Television, mobile networks and air conditioning to primarily connect with people and nature. As much as it is a lesson for him, I too need the detox of staying away from digital screens through the day.

What did I expect?

I had seen some blogs and videos written about the place. The rural setting interested me, but since this trip was to be made in my son’s summer holidays, I was slightly worried if staying in a village would be a problem. I knew that there were turtle hatchery sightings twice a day and a few sights nearby if one wanted to drive around during the day.

What was my itinerary?

Day One– I planned to fly into Pune on a Friday morning, and take a Zoomcar from Pune to drive my way to Velas through a state highway route and settle into the homestay on Friday evening. If possible, I wanted to make it in time for the evening sighting.

Day TwoРI planned to see both the sightings and if possible make time to visit Anjarle Beach/Harihareshwar Beach/Bankot Fort  nearby(Fun-Fact, I did not do any of these)

Day ThreeРI wanted to have my breakfast and then pack off on a slow drive to Pune to meet a friend of mine by evening , so as to catch my late night flight back home. (Fun-Fact, I started only at 3 pm and reached Pune at 9 pm)

The details of what I did is coming up as separate posts. But before that here’s a quick photo and write up on what to expect

Things to Know, that I wish I had planned earlier

Right Route– The drive from Pune to Velas, was through the Tamhini Ghat road is on a State Highway that snakes its way through hills. It also has a few kilometres of pot holed roads, which means you drive at 20-30 km/hr on those stretches. The drive though is ¬†180 kilometres, takes around 6 to 6.5 hours. ¬†The better route from Pune is to drive through Lonavala. More distance and lesser times, since there are better roads to drive. The state transport buses keep coming at you on these roads, and you need to know, who’s the king of the jungle in these parts!

Bus Ride on Tamhini Ghat Road from Pune
Bus Ride on Tamhini Ghat Road from Pune

Scenic– I had to make quite a few stops, while driving around the serenely beautiful Mulshi Lake. In the monsoons this place is even more magical.

The Mulshi Lake near Tamhini Ghat-Maharashtra
The Mulshi Lake near Tamhini Ghat-Maharashtra

Slow Down– If you want to slow down and enjoy village life, you really should not try to pack in other attractions in a 3 day trip. I just found living in the homestay, visiting the turtle beach and playing in the sea, more than a handful. I did not make any other trips in this 3 day period at all. I ended up meeting a few people in the village to know more about their turtle conservation efforts.

Parking– The road to many of these homestay is a narrow one, and you need to park your car in a way that other vehicles, namely state transport buses can pass through. Its advisable to come early before the crowds and find your spot which is walkable from the homestay

The narrow roads to Velas Maharashtra
The narrow roads to Velas Maharashtra

Food– ¬†I stayed at Milind’s homestay and the food and hospitality was so good, that eating food and talking with strangers and sleeping at night on the mud floor (with a bedding layer) were things that I really enjoyed. I did not really feel like leaving the place.

Delicious morning Poha at Milind Nijsure's Homestay-Velas (Maharashtra-India)
Delicious morning Poha at Milind Nijsure’s Homestay-Velas (Maharashtra-India)

Sleep– Lying down with strangers and a view of the stars has to rank as a great experience. In a village most people are in sync with nature and sleep by about 10 pm. You need to pack your Odomos and sleep in a full pant. Men sleep outside while women and children sleep inside (Mosquitoes can visit quite a few times)

Mats out on the mud flooring at Milind's Homestay-Velas Village (Maharashtra)
Mats out on the mud flooring at Milind’s Homestay-Velas Village (Maharashtra)

Turtles

Given these turtles are the star attraction and the possibility of seeing them is dependent on how many decide to come out of the eggs, it could be 0 turtles or a few that day. Always keep a couple of sessions more than required just in case.

Turtle Hatchery in Velas
Turtle Hatchery in Velas

There will be a steady crowd at these places especially on weekends, so you will have to find your quiet corner to watch the turtles. Make friends with the local administration people to get closer to the turtle within the admissible limits.

Turtles being let out into the sea-Velas (Maharashtra-India)
Turtles being let out into the sea-Velas (Maharashtra-India)

I will leave you with a few montages of what to expect on my trip. There’s a detailed 3 part video and series ¬†coming up.

If you want to know the preparation I did to come to the Turtle Festival, please check my podcast below with Shama Parveen on her blog

 

 

 

 

Peaceful Life on a Farm in Tamil Nadu

I had been last week to a farm house [Vaksana Farms] in Tindivanam (A place in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu) to catch up on a few things. I loved the way the house was in the middle of nowhere. The house was designed very well, including enough green cover around to keep the heat out.

The washbasins were made of curved boulders instead of bone china, and the tables were out made of rock. The house had a shade of functional Flintstone like life and modernity nicely blended

Natural Boulder Washbasin
Natural Boulder Washbasin [Image Courtesy-Kiruba.com]
Along with me were Gurpeet Tikku, Kiruba  [owns Vaksana Farms] and another family that had come there. Srinidhi Hande, was on a trip to Sparsa Resort and Sathanur dam, came visiting on Sunday evening.

 

Here’s presenting my weekend there in 60 seconds

Life on a Farm in Tamil Nadu Vaksana Farms
Life on a Farm in Tamil Nadu Vaksana Farms
Little Flowers falling on the Flintstones like table
Little Flowers falling on the Flintstones like table
Milking the Cow at Vaksana Farms
Milking the Cow at Vaksana Farms
Discussing on Instagram
Discussing on Instagram
Lunch Time at the Farm
Lunch Time at the Farm
Milking the Cow at Vaksana Farms
Milking the Cow at Vaksana Farms

 

Staring at the evening sun for a selfie!
Staring at the evening sun for a selfie! With Kiruba’s dad, Retla and Srinidhi Hande with his spouse.
The farmers dancing to the tune of "Make Hay while the sun shines"
The farmers dancing to the tune of “Make Hay while the sun shines”
The art of Chilling-Sri Sri Kartik
The art of Chilling-Sri Sri Kartik

 

Blast From The Past- Exploring Anjanadri Hill (Hampi)-Part 2

 

If you ever hop on to Hampi, one of the places for a morning jaunt should be Anjanadri Hill. It’s a 570 steps from the base to the top of the hill and was about 3.5 kilometres from Anegundi. I had a local who gave me a lift at about 5:15 in the morning. The weather was good, with Cyclone Neelam just having visited earlier in the week, so it was largely overcast even an hour after sunrise.

[This post continues from Part-1]

Here’s a little photo blog on my experience climbing the hill, that overlooks plantain and paddy fields, with a top view of the boulders and the river that cuts across all of these fields. There is also the view of the Vithala and Virupaksha temple if you strain your eye or your zoom lens.

This place is best visited during the golden hours. I visited it for Sunrise. Since Hampi has a lot of hills, each of these places are great to travel and see them from the top during the golden hour.

The base of Anjanadri hill. A small shop display their 'Kolam' to start the day
The base of Anjanadri hill. A small shop display their ‘Kolam’ to start the day
View of Hampi from the crevices of Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)
View of Hampi from the crevices of Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)
The long winding 570 step stairway to Anjanadri Hill
The long winding 570 step stairway to Anjanadri Hill
Monkeys guarding Hanuman's hometown-Anjanadri Hill (Hampi-Karnataka-India)
Monkeys guarding Hanuman’s hometown-Anjanadri Hill (Hampi-Karnataka-India)
Beautiful view of the hill against the backdrop of dawn at Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)
Beautiful view of the hill against the backdrop of dawn at Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)
Beautiful Views of Hampi from Anjanadri Hill
Beautiful Views of Hampi from Anjanadri Hill
View of the Bhadravati River from the top of Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)
View of the Bhadravati River from the top of Anjanadri Hill (Karnataka-India)

Other Blogs Talking about Anjanadri Hill

Sagar Sakre talks about how the Bhadravati river  cuts across 2 districts- Koppal and Bellary, and also about some attractions at the top of the hill like a floating rock.

Vasant.P talks about how Anjanadri Hill is one of the seven hillocks in this area and the significance of each of the hillocks.The seven hillocks are¬†Kishkinda, Anjanadri, Matanga, Malyavanta, Rushyamukha,¬†Hemakuta, Rathnakuta.¬†He also mentions that Hanuman is revered by Barack Obama and Prime Minister Modi’s wife had come here in 2014.

If you have written about the place, please do mention your link in the comments. I will be happy to feature it.

Getting Here

It’s a straight road from Anegundi. If you are coming from Bangalore, you need to drive towards the Chitradurga-Hospete direction and come to Anegundi.

 

Blast From The Past- Anegondi’s(Hampi) Rural Charms-Part 1

This post explores Anegondi, a small rural town on the banks of the Tunghabadra river in Hampi. This was from a trip in 2012, hence the series ‚ÄėBlast from the Past‚Äô I thought it makes for showing the beautiful rural charms of India.

How did I decide to go? -I happened to read about Anegondi in an Outlook Traveller article [October 2012 edition] and immediately decided that this place would be a great weekend destination to go from Bangalore.  The train (Train # 16592) starts at 10 pm on Fridays from the city railway station and reaches Hospet/Munirabad the next morning by about 8 in the morning.

Robbery Central– The train passes through Hindupur/Dharmavaram, which is apparently a spot for frequent train robberies. I experienced a robbery in front of me, and could not catch the robber. My only advice is to pull down your train window (I travel Non AC Sleeper most of the times) and don’t encourage any stranger-without a reservation to sit in your vicinity (Those 6+2 seats). If you can travel in the AC compartments, it does create one extra layer against these train thefts.

Things of Interest- If you have time, try going to the following places during your stay at Anegundi

a) Anjanadri Hill– Birthplace of Hanuman (Coming up in Part-2)

b) Gangavathi- Another village 12 km from Anegondi. A circus operates there. Should be fun seeing these art forms from the yester years, given that we don’t see them enough in cities.

c) Long walk to the river. Just a beautiful walk through the country side.

d) Coracle Ride to the Temple side– To get to the beautiful Vithala and Virupaksha Temple

e) Chai-Chillum-Chappathi Trail– If you head to Virpappur Gaddi, say hello to the hippies. If they don’t wave back, they are probably on hash/Marijuana and on their own trip!

f) Odomos Trail– Mosquitoes have the best nightlife post sunset, so don’t plan too many activities in the evening that involves you being outside. Check with your host on the situation/season for mosquito menace.

Here’s a brief glimpse into my journey to Anegondi from Munirabad railway station in photos.

 

On an auto through the hills. From Munirabad to Anegundi
On an auto through the hills. From Munirabad to Anegundi

 

Home is not far away! Anegundi approaching!
Home is not far away! Anegundi approaching!
We slayed the hills on an auto! Cant imagine any other place where autos operate on a hill
We slayed the hills on an auto! Cant imagine any other place where autos operate on a hill
The beautiful fields and boulders enroute Anegundi
The beautiful fields and boulders enroute Anegundi

 

The scenic countryside enroute Anegundi
The scenic countryside enroute Anegundi
Hanuman's home town! There's only one boss here!
Hanuman’s home town! There’s only one boss here!
The beautiful portico of the Uramma Heritage Home in Anegondi (Hampi-Karnataka-India)
The beautiful portico of the Uramma Heritage Home in Anegondi (Hampi-Karnataka-India)

If you are on a budget and want to stay in a similar artistic property, you could try out Peshagar House, which is part of the same group.

The comfortable beds of Uramma Heritage Homes-Anegondi-Hampi
The comfortable beds of Uramma Heritage Homes-Anegondi-Hampi 
Beautiful and spacious rooms at Uramma Heritage Cottages
Beautiful and spacious rooms at Uramma Heritage Cottages

To book into the spacious cottages of Uramma, head here

If you want a guide and a detailed trip to some of the points, you could use my friend Basava (Call him at 9482328777), who is a tour guide roaming around in a Himalayan Enfield.

Read the next post which talks about the morning trip to Anjanadri Hill here

In The Land of Kurumba Tribes-Part 6-The Time at Kurumba Village

When I woke up on the last day of my trip, I decided I will maybe spend the morning sitting on the balcony waiting for the morning to slowly show its colours. It was lovely listening to the sound of the birds. I woke up early, and I was pleasantly surprised that I did. The previous evening, I was treated to a fantastic dinner by Chef Murali.

Our little private garden wakes up to the dawn at Kurumba Village
Our little private garden wakes up to the dawn at Kurumba Village

I had their chef  arrange a special halogen lit dinner by their beautiful treehouse in the woods. It took me 10 minutes to reach there as I had to walk down on the path, to find the tree house within their huge resort-cum-forest complex. I loved his pepper corn starters, Herb infused salads and his concoction of a coconut-ginger soup that had me going on for more.  I had about 3 extra servings because it was so tasty. I was always a fan of the Burmese-Thai soup that Freshmenu makes, but this was better than that.

Tree Top Dinner at Kurumba Village
Tree Top Dinner at Kurumba Village

Chef Murali is from the town of Palakkad nearby, and has come up the hard way by doing some great dishes and takes a lot of interest in making sure his guest’s eyes light up. People going beyond their call of duty, makes you develop a huge affinity with the brand-Kurumba Village. I certainly had! When I left the tree house, Chef Murali, briefly mentioned to me, that I should not be scared when I walk my way back, because elephants sometime get into the resort. The buggy was arranged to transport us safely.

Chef Murali of Kurumba Village
Chef Murali of Kurumba Village

The following morning, I woke up and spent my time looking at the valley from our garden, and walked up to the little stream that flows beside the resort’s eating area. The sound of a flowing stream, amidst the birds chirping is all you need on your ears, early in the morning. It has a way to make your brain soak in just the right vibes and feel at ease with the world. The resort not having telecom signals and a very fragile Wifi connection also helped me be disconnected from the world.

Our Portico overlooking the Garden! Chai Time!
Our Portico overlooking the Garden! Chai Time!

Know more of how the last day went in this little video. It features the following

  1. My little trip down to the stream
  2. Epic views of the clouds and mountains during breakfast
  3. Nandu getting to do activities with the naturalist
  4. Nandu and I playing in the pool all morning
  5. Our rides in the buggy back to my car

Cost of Staying

The resort is priced above 12,000 INR onwards on its rooms, and it differs depending on the room type. Browse through their website to book directly

Best Time to Go

There is no best time for a place steeped in the hills, but if you can just before the Europeans come here for their winter season (Dec-February), the resort is flush with the freshness of the onset of the North East Monsoon(Oct-Nov) and the Pre monsoon showers (June-September)

Getting There

From Chennai‚Äď You could take the train 12671 to Mettupalayam via Coimbatore and then take a taxi from there to the resort. If you are flying down, take a taxi from the Peelamedu airport in Coimbatore.

From Bangalore-The best way is to drive, through Mysore and Gudalur into Ooty, Coonor and then Kurumbadi, but if you dont prefer the hills, you can drive through Salem, Erode, Avinashi keeping the ghat roads to a minimum of 14 kilometres. For those flying or taking a train, you need to come to Coimbatore to then take a taxi.

From anywhere else in India-Fly in to Coimbatore and take a taxi/train to Mettupalayam

To get to Kurumba Village, its best you travel on your own in your vehicle. Whether you travel on your own or take a taxi for your rides, it should be another 6000-7000 Rs on your driving costs at the minimum.

If ever you wish to be adventurous, the way to do that is to take the train at Mettupalayam and get down at HillGrove, and trek down into the Kurunji flower areas, cross a little waterfall hoping you dont slip, and you will find yourself in 20 minutes at the resort.

The resort has only BSNL signals, so if you have anything else, it makes sense to call the resort from Mettupalayam/Coonor for directions, as there is no easy signboard to spot on your left, where you need to make a V shaped turn down the valley. If you are not sure how to drive down or drive up a hill, it helps if you can drive in 1st gear or get a driver who is at ease with driving in the hilly regions.

In The Land of Kurumba Tribes-Part 5-The Trek through Singara Estate

Once I had reached TeaNest, I loved the view from there. My guide Srini had promised me about a great trek down the valley.I have documented my trek down as a video. You can watch it below. It had a few highlights

  1. Get to the Top of a waterfall and see the railway track from above.

    Nilgiri Mountain Railway Track as seen from Bakkasura Mountain in Coonoor-Tamil Nadu
    Nilgiri Mountain Railway Track as seen from Bakkasura Mountain in Coonoor-Tamil Nadu
Going to the top of a waterfall-Bakkasura Mountain
Going to the top of a waterfall-Bakkasura Mountain
  • Serenade through tea estates and find a shorter route home
The Beautiful Life begins here! Singara Tea Estate
The Beautiful Life begins here! Singara Tea Estate
  • Pause at a point, where you can see Sim’s rock from a distance
Clouds over Coonoor
Clouds over Coonoor
  • Walk down to a scenic government school, from which opens a beautiful valley view
Goverment School in Singara Estate-Tamil Nadu
Goverment School in Singara Estate-Tamil Nadu
Goverment School in Singara Estate- Coonoor
Goverment School in Singara Estate- Coonoor

 

  • Pause at the ‘Hill Grove’ Railway station. Drink tea and start the trek back down to the Hotel
Hillgrove Railway Station on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway
Hillgrove Railway Station on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway
 Some other photos from the trek below!
The Bakkasura Hills are coloured by the Clouds
The Bakkasura Hills are coloured by the Clouds

Cost of Staying

The resort is priced above 12,000 INR onwards on its rooms, and it differs depending on the room type. Browse through their website to book directly

Best Time to Go

There is no best time for a place steeped in the hills, but if you can just before the Europeans come here for their winter season (Dec-February), the resort is flush with the freshness of the onset of the North East Monsoon(Oct-Nov) and the Pre monsoon showers (June-September)

Getting There

From Chennai‚Äď You could take the train 12671 to Mettupalayam via Coimbatore and then take a taxi from there to the resort. If you are flying down, take a taxi from the Peelamedu airport in Coimbatore.

From Bangalore-The best way is to drive, through Mysore and Gudalur into Ooty, Coonor and then Kurumbadi, but if you dont prefer the hills, you can drive through Salem, Erode, Avinashi keeping the ghat roads to a minimum of 14 kilometres. For those flying or taking a train, you need to come to Coimbatore to then take a taxi.

From anywhere else in India-Fly in to Coimbatore and take a taxi/train to Mettupalayam

To get to Kurumba Village, its best you travel on your own in your vehicle. Whether you travel on your own or take a taxi for your rides, it should be another 6000-7000 Rs on your driving costs at the minimum.

If ever you wish to be adventurous, the way to do that is to take the train at Mettupalayam and get down at HillGrove, and trek down into the Kurunji flower areas, cross a little waterfall hoping you dont slip, and you will find yourself in 20 minutes at the resort. I dropped my S7 Edge into the waterfall, but thankfully my phone can remain in water undisturbed.

The resort has only BSNL signals, so if you have anything else, it makes sense to call the resort from Mettupalayam/Coonor for directions, as there is no easy signboard to spot on your left, where you need to make a V shaped turn down the valley. If you are not sure how to drive down or drive up a hill, it helps if you can drive in 1st gear or get a driver who is at ease with driving in the hilly regions.

In The Land of Kurumba Tribes-Part 4-Reaching Tea Nest and Singara Estate

This post talks about a guided trek from Coonoor’s Singara Estate all the way down to Kurumba Village resort, going through the monsoon clouds, tea estates and little government buildings popping out of nowhere.¬†The previous post talked about exploring the Toy Train ride to Ooty from the land of the Kurumbadis. If you‚Äôve just arrived here, we‚Äôve so far talked about¬†how we arrived at Kurumba Village¬†and spent some time with a¬†naturalist exploring the environment at Kurumba Village.¬†

In the evening, I managed to speak to the hotel manager ‘Jyotish’ about the possibility of a guided trek, who helped me arrange a trek with their resident guide. This needed to be planned as I had to arrive at Tea-Nest, a sister property of Kurumba Village which was about 20 kilometres away. I had to drive with one of the hotel staff early next morning till Tea-Nest, and then requested the staff to drive the car back to Kurumba Village. I would trek and come back to Kurumba village in a few hours.

So I woke up in the morning, and drove to Coonoor, where we would pick up our guide Srini (who spoke in a Malayali accent, but was actually from Mysore, who’s parents were settled in Coonoor).¬† The drive out on the mud-road is slightly challenging on the ascent, when you need to be on 1st gear, but otherwise its a straightforward drive to get to the main road.

Faith on a slateboard at Coonoor
Faith on a slateboard at Coonoor

We waited at a few points on the drive, to pause and take note of the beauty of the mountains. The sky was pregant with rain clouds, and the sun was threatening to find its away by showcasing an orangish gaze. The rain won the battle, and I had to get back in the car to focus on reaching Coonoor, so as to pick up our guide-Sreeni.

Beautiful view of mountains en-route Coonoor
Beautiful view of mountains en-route Coonoor

We reached Coonoor town by about 6:30 am, and were waiting for Sreeni- the guide from Nature Resorts. Sreeni arrived at 6:45 am, as he was walking and coming from his home, which was 5 km’s away. Sreeni is an active walker, who prefers walking from Coonoor to Mettupalayam, as its quicker to travel that way than get caught in the traffic jams that happen on weekends when travellers come in droves to Ooty.

Misty Morning in Coonoor
Misty Morning in Coonoor

We saw a beautiful ‘Thamburusi’ flower, which was having a beautiful contrast with the light mist, the green leaves and the dark clouds. The water-droplets on the flower, were like the fountain of youth dangling on them visually.

Flowers in bloom, amidst the morning mist
Flowers in bloom, amidst the morning mist

I had a cup of tea, and then started to walk on the trek. Stay tuned to Part-5 coming up soon.

Teanest- Our destination and starting point for the trek
Teanest- Our destination and starting point for the trek

Do have a look at the video where I reach Teanest, from the hotel. The videos always have a little extra than what I write.

 

 

 

In the Land of the Kurumbadi Tribes-Part 3-The Toy Train Ride to Ooty

Teanest- Our destination and starting point for the trek

This post talks about exploring the Toy Train ride to Ooty from the land of the Kurumbadis. If you’ve just arrived here, we’ve so far talked about how we arrived at Kurumba Village and spent some time with a naturalist exploring the environment at Kurumba Village.¬†

Getting Ready for a Toy Train Ride

After a beautiful walk in the woods, I was planning a trip to Ooty just to show my son the Toy Train. I had previously booked tickets on the Toy Train knowing that I will be staying in ‘Kurumba Village’. The closest station is Hilligrove, but the toy train does not admit people there, even though it stops, so I had to drive in my car till Coonoor, which is about 14 kilometres. I had a train at 1630 IST which was to reach Ooty by about 1730. I thought the morning Toy train would take longer, but it looks like there are different trains with different speeds or maybe the trains have started to go faster since my last trips in 2010 and 2002. We packed for some biscuits, the Go-Pro Camera, my camera kit (DSLR and mobile with the smaller tripod).

Watch a video of my ride in the toy train

The Ride to Coonoor Railway Station

We passed by Kattery Park and Glendale Tea estate (from a distance) as we reached Coonoor. While I did not have enough time to stop over, for the fear that I may get caught in a traffic jam.There were some beautiful views of the mountains in the distance and we paused for a few moments at each place to take in the view, and then reached Coonoor by about 3:55 pm, and since it was a weekday, there seemed to be enough place to park my car in the railway station.

The Glendale Tea Estate when viewed from a distance enroute Coonoor
The Glendale Tea Estate when viewed from a distance enroute Coonoor

As we walked into the station, i noticed a train already waiting, and on checking with the TTE(Traveling Ticket Examiner), it was confirmed that this was my train, which had probably been advanced by about 30 minutes. I boarded the train in my little compartment that could house 6 people facing each other where 4 seats would have access to a window view.

 
 

From childhood, I’ve always fantasized being in a pocket sized train, which I can take anywhere I want. The cars of the early 19th century were like a small toy train compartment which had wheels on roads. Having got inside, I took the middle seat, and gave the window seat to Nandu, asking him to observe what he sees. We were to pass by tunnels and bridges (There are 250 of them on this route) and we were part of a beautiful blue carriage with large windows that was slowly chugging past a beautiful green landscape.

History of the Nilgiri Mountain Railways.

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway was thought by the British back in 1854 and it took about 54 years to plan and cut through the rocky terrain to make a train go through these mountains. The locals of this area frequently were used to find paths to walk between Ooty and Mettupalayam in an hour and still do. The Toy Train is used by migrant workers or for people who want a safer commute between little towns on the hills, but with the trains coming in 1908, it did make a huge difference to the way people could commute and transport materials.

The Steam locomotive that pulls from Mettupalayam(MTP) to Udhagamandalam(Ooty-UAM) stops over at Coonoor for a more powerful engine to pull through the hill side. The engines were using coal, but due to diminishing coal resources, the trains now fill water at each of the stations which gives enough fuel to get to the next station pulling a group of coaches.

The train has a rack and pinion arrangement for better grip on mountain paths, and as a result the maximum speed is about 13 km/hr on the rack path, and about 30 km/hr on the non-rack path. The metre gauge track runs for about 46 kilometres from Mettupalayam to Udagamandalam

The Cinema connection to the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The beautiful and simple mountain railways in ooty has attracted many cinema directors to shoot on this iconic railway line. The Tamil Movie ‘Moondram Pirai’ also remade in Hindi as ‘Sadma’ was shot here in 1982.

The other famous movie shot here was the Mani-Ratnam directed Uyire/Dil Se’. There were many more movies, that were shot here, but I have included the 2 most visually appealing film-makers who have shot here. The complete list is shown below in the appendix.

Our Experience on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway

On the Nilgiri Mountain Railway Toy Train from Coonoor to Udhagamandalam
On the Nilgiri Mountain Railway Toy Train from Coonoor to Udhagamandalam

The train’s doors were bolted by the TTE at the start of the journey. The train did not allow passengers to get down and amble around, and stops for about 45 seconds in each of the stations enroute (Lovedale, Ketti). This was a slight bummer, since there was a fast pace vibe to sitting in a slow train.¬† Our co-passengers and I would take turns to exchange views on windows. The train starts with views of betel trees, heads off into mild forests and then opens out into a valley view of tea estates, before passing by a lake by the side of the Udhagamandalam railway station.

We had booked our second class reserved tickets from Coonor to Ooty and had not booked our return tickets, since there was no train showing up on IRCTC. As a result, we had to get down and go buy tickets from the counter. The train stops for about 15 minutes at Udhagamandalam, and functions as a complete unreserved passenger train on the return journey to Coonoor. There is enough time left to go buy a ticket and find a place to sit, unless it happens to be a weekend, where there is expected to be a bigger rush.

Window seats on the unreserved journey back to Coonor
Window seats on the unreserved journey back to Coonor
Footboard View of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway Toy Train
Footboard View of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway Toy Train

On our return journey, the light started fading early, as mist started accumulating as the train slowly found its way into beautiful village with settlements built around railway stations.

Dusk, Rain and a forlorn railway station as the evening and night start talking
Dusk, Rain and a forlorn railway station as the evening and night start talking

Every time a tunnel came, it would automatically prompt the younger crowd of tourists to yell until the tunnel found light. The train ride in the evening was sleepy at best due to the fading light and we reached Coonoor, being happy enough to drive back to our resort, albeit feeling a little drained.

As much as I expected Nandu to feel entertained, he was falling asleep by the chill evening wind

Unreserved Passenger Train from Ooty to Coonor
Unreserved Passenger Train from Ooty to Coonor

Other Media on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway and Ooty

Here’s a big list of movies shot in Ooty, apart from the ones I have shared.

Ajay Jain of Kunzum, travels and shares his experience in a detailed photo blog, as part of his Arabian Drive.

Amit talks about a detailed road trip  + Toy Train

Sam and Sheena actually managed to put their cycle on the train. I found some very useful info on the intricacies of booking tickets, from their blog.

Planning your Trip on the Nilgiri Mountain Rail Toy Train from Mettupalayam to Coonor/Udhagamandalam

  • You could opt to book waitlisted tickets from a railway counter or on IRCTC, but that would mean uncertainty till the last minute.
  • There are 21 tickets sold in person on the morning of the journey. So if you can get to Mettupalayam really early before the rest of the crowd comes in, you can find a hack to book your tickets. But do remember, that these are small trains, and if you are using them at the start of your journey with heavy luggage, then it may be tough. There is a parcel van for one of the trains, which has a separate office to book your luggage. Do come early to avail of this facility
  • If you are with a large group, make sure every member of the group is with you during booking tickets, otherwise the ticket booking person is unlikely to book it since there is a huge demand
  • Ooty/Coonoor are in Tamil Nadu, which for a large part is a very hot and humid state. People from various parts of Tamil Nadu flock to ooty on the weekend, to have better weather and to treat their kids to a toy train ride. If you are planning a weekend trip, do try and club it with a Friday or a Monday, and keep your train ride on weekdays, if you have not planned in advance. There are not more than 50 seats on the train, and its extremely tough to get reservation unless you book early or reach the railway station line on the day of the journey (being the earliest). Most people come here by the Nilgiri express train from Coimbatore, so you will need to make sure you are ahead in the line, by reaching earlier than them to get ahead on the line. The train reaches Mettupalayam at 6:15, so you need to beat them to be earlier than them. 4 am maybe to be first in the line.
  • If you travelling from Bangalore, you would enter Ooty first and then come to Mettupalayam(unless you want to take the salem-avinashi-mettupalayam route longer by 100 kilometres but with pristine 5th gear worthy highways).¬† It’s always better to arrive in the hills, and then keep the ride as an attraction, than to use the trains as a means of commute on your journey start or end, since there is not too much space for luggage.

In the Land of the Kurumbadi Tribes-Part 2

This post talks about how we spent some time with a naturalist exploring the environment at Kurumba Village.  The previous post talks about how we arrived at Kurumba Village .

Night Walking in the Forest

As the evening paves way to the night and the winter chill sets in, I walk across the stone path from the dining place to my room. I can hear sounds of bats and crickets, and I find that the stone path zig zags a bit and goes down a considerable distance. I leave it for the day to explore, as it seems a little scary at night, and there’s a light drizzle that’s just picking up. I decide to come back post the rains, and discover that the path down basically goes to a beautiful tree house. There is a ‘buggy service’ for transporting guests to different parts of the resort, and I am far away from a resort staff at 9 in the night, and my phone is in the room, so I just walk back quietly. I am told that sometime elephants do come into the resort as the forest blends into the resort. As long as we don’t mess with the elephant, it will come by and go further down the hill, without really bothering about you.

Jaywalking at Night in the stone path within the resort at Kurumba Village
Jaywalking at Night in the stone path within the resort at Kurumba Village

On the Kurumbadis

The next morning I wake up early, and look at some of the paintings that adorn the wall of each of the rooms.¬† I also ask around, and figure out that the Kurumbas were hunters and gatherers, and usually exchange goods and services with the other 2 tribes. The Kurumbas had small dwellings with a garden patch, growing bananas, mangos and jackfruit. Most of their settlements have seen migration from the higher reaches of the nilgiris to just above the plains, owing to de-forestation. Some of the Kurumbadi tribes in the region, work in the ‘Kurumba Village’ resort. It is also said that the Kurumbas are known for their sorcery, but this yet to be verified.¬†This website, talks a bit about the Kurumbas. If you happen to know a little more, do help me gather information by commenting on the post.

Painting/Sketchings of the lives of the Kurumbadi Tribes
Painting/Sketchings of the lives of the Kurumbadi Tribes

Planning the day ahead

At breakfast, Nandu and I decided to plan our day on what each of us wanted to do. I wanted Nandu to travel on the toy train and also attend a class on environment with the in-resident. Nandu wanted to play and read something on the hammock. So I had to sit and plan the day out. I wanted to go on a little hike with the in-house guide, who advised me on a hike nearby but he clearly said kids cant do the hike, so I postponed that plan to the next day to be done, when Nandu was sleeping.

Scenic Breakfast View at Kurumba Village Resort
Scenic Breakfast View at Kurumba Village Resort
Dining against the backdrop of the Bakasura Mountains
Dining against the backdrop of the Bakasura Mountains

So the plan for the day was to start with some hammock time, picking a couple of books from the room(Each room comes with a little library of books, apart from a library at the reception). It was initially a little tough trying to balance 2 bodies on the hammock, but once we settled down, it seemed a very relaxing thing to do.  Nandu went in first,  trying to play on the mobile, to discover that there was no network and no Wifi for him.

The lure of the hammock in a forest-Kurumba Village Resort
The lure of the hammock in a forest-Kurumba Village Resort
Morning Story Telling
Morning Story Telling

Naturalist Tour for kids, inside Kurumba Village

A resident naturalist called Dinesh, takes kids on little tours inside the resort and introduces them to the animals inside and gives them an introductory lesson on how children can get closer to the environment. I decided to follow them from a distance to try and see what Nandu learns, since I was trying to teach him something similar on our trip to the Andamans

Spot that Bird There!
Spot that Bird There!

Dinesh decided to divide the session into 2 parts. Nandu was with Rohan, another kid staying at the resort, and both of them had to go collect leaves and twigs from around the resort. After they had got about 5 leaves, they needed to pick up a paper and create a little art form by sticking the leaves on paper. While paper dried, Dinesh would take them around the resort, talking about the birds in the vicinity, spotting animal footmarks, learning to stay still and hug a tree, and about the Kurumbadi village. I was lapping all of what Dinesh was saying, staying happy that Nandu found an interesting activity to engage himself in.

Ambling our way within the resort (Kurumba Village)
Ambling our way within the resort (Kurumba Village)
Nandu reaching out for the adhesive at the Children-Activity center at Kurumba Village Resort
Nandu reaching out for the adhesive at the Children-Activity center at Kurumba Village Resort
Children's activity centre overlooking a beautiful view of the forests at Kurumba Village Resort
Children’s activity centre overlooking a beautiful view of the forests at Kurumba Village Resort
Tree Hugging Excercise at Kurumba Village Resort
Tree Hugging Excercise at Kurumba Village Resort

The tree hugging exercise is a beautiful excercise that teaches kids that the tree is our mother and feeling the vibes that flow from nature to us humans. One needs to spend about 5 minutes in silence trying to hug the tree, feeling the bark of the tree (preferably blindfolded as your senses of touch are heightened). Nandu is a kid who is high on energy, and it was a brief break to pause and connect with nature. I intend to do more such trips, that helps him connect with nature and grow up to be a environmentally conscious traveller.

The last time Nandu and I did this in the Andamans, I got an award from Indiblogger for being the best blog talking on the environment. While it was encouraging to see external people realising its importance, I realize these are still baby steps towards making him an environmentally conscious traveller, but If you have any ideas that could help and sustain learning, please do comment and let me know.

Nandu collecting all the twigs and sticking them in his slam book
Nandu collecting all the twigs and sticking them in his slam book
Kurumba Village certifies Naturalist Nandu
Kurumba Village certifies Naturalist Nandu

This series continues in Part-3

Have a look at Kurumba Village’s facilities

 

If you cant wait, and need a little highlights reel on what to expect in the other parts, do watch this below video

Cost of Staying

The resort is priced above 12,000 INR onwards on its rooms, and it differs depending on the room type. Browse through their website to book directly

Best Time to Go

There is no best time for a place steeped in the hills, but if you can just before the Europeans come here for their winter season (Dec-February), the resort is flush with the freshness of the onset of the North East Monsoon(Oct-Nov) and the Pre monsoon showers (June-September)

Getting There

From Chennai– You could take the train 12671 to Mettupalayam via Coimbatore and then take a taxi from there to the resort. If you are flying down, take a taxi from the Peelamedu airport in Coimbatore.

From Bangalore-The best way is to drive, through Mysore and Gudalur into Ooty, Coonor and then Kurumbadi, but if you dont prefer the hills, you can drive through Salem, Erode, Avinashi keeping the ghat roads to a minimum of 14 kilometres. For those flying or taking a train, you need to come to Coimbatore to then take a taxi.

From anywhere else in India-Fly in to Coimbatore and take a taxi/train to Mettupalayam

To get to Kurumba Village, its best you travel on your own in your vehicle. Whether you travel on your own or take a taxi for your rides, it should be another 6000-7000 Rs on your driving costs at the minimum.

If ever you wish to be adventurous, the way to do that is to take the train at Mettupalayam and get down at HillGrove, and trek down into the Kurunji flower areas, cross a little waterfall hoping you dont slip, and you will find yourself in 20 minutes at the resort. I dropped my S7 Edge into the waterfall, but thankfully my phone can remain in water undisturbed.

The resort has only BSNL signals, so if you have anything else, it makes sense to call the resort from Mettupalayam/Coonor for directions, as there is no easy signboard to spot on your left, where you need to make a V shaped turn down the valley. If you are not sure how to drive down or drive up a hill, it helps if you can drive in 1st gear or get a driver who is at ease with driving in the hilly regions.

 

In the Land of the Kurumba Tribes-Part 1

Tribes– Seth Godin describes them as “a group of people connected to one another, connected to a leader, and connected to an idea”. I was out to live in a forest but in the comforts of a proper resort, in the land of a tribal village called Kurumbadi, where the Kurumbas live. The Kurumbas, Toda’s and Kota’s are the three prominent tribes in the Nilgiri area, presumably¬† believed to have originated from 3 sons named that way, who went on to develop tribes from their family tree. With this little history, I set off on my trip to the land of the Kurumbadis

If you dont have the time, to read further, try watching the video that tells our story. If you have the time reading the post further on is probably the best experience.

The Route to Mettupalayam

The weather near Salem turned slightly overcast, as I stopped for a driving break. I could see some hills from the A2B restaurant, which had considerable cloud cover. I knew I had to be a little mindful of rain enroute, and of course on roads that might not have a whole lot of tar on it. The other thing that worries me on drives are usually battery levels on the phone, since I use it to speak and also for navigation. The folks from ‘Kurumba Village’ called me a day in advance to tell me directions as Airtel signals dont work from Mettupalayam all the way till Coonoor, and Kurumbadi is exactly between these places, where I need to discover a mud path going down from the hill, 30 degrees to my left.

I had great roads till the Avinashi Byepass, after which I had to slow down on a state highway to Mettupalayam. As I turned on my phone from the slumber of the ‘flight mode’, a slow drizzle started and my car’s windows were starting to become dotted with drops. Its a beautiful feeling to be in a closed cozy car, when its raining outside. I started the drive, looking at the betel plantations on either sides of the toy train track that was running parallel to the road that took me on the ascent to the nilgiri hills.

The monsoon cometh- Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu
The monsoon cometh- Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu

Rain and Hair-pin bends

In about half-an hour, after a few hair pin bends, and some drizzle, I was feeling at home driving in the hills, when I realised that I had probably missed the turn down. I slowed down, stopped and walked a bit back to check and luckily I had gone only about 150 metres ahead of the left turn. I managed to turn back and find the road down, with a little trepidation. For a first timer, to drive a heavy car down a part-mud-part tar road filled with leaves, is scary, as you dont quite know the terrain. The hotel was still 500 metres away down that road. I settled for the comfort of the second gear, to just have a light grip on the accelerator, as I passed by homes of the hotel staff into the forest in a single road, which went down after a couple of curves into the entrance.

Getting to Kurumba Village

I had the hotel staff waiting for me, with their traditional ‘Vanakkam’, post which I was led to my room by one of the staff members.The Kurumba Village resort, was set up in 1996 and it took about 4 years to get all the permissions, and then by the time, it was complete for bookings, it was 2004. It takes some amount of patience to build a hotel, that’s a work of art, and the biggest compliment I could give it, was that it did not feel like I was in a resort, but in a forest where there were homes in random places along the stone walk.

Our room opening to a private garden and hammock-Kurumba Village Resort
Our room opening to a private garden and hammock-Kurumba Village Resort

Next to my room, was a private little garden surrounded by plants and a hammock, while each roomed adorned a painting of the tribes of the Nilgiris. The room had a valley view, opening out to the magnificence of the Bakasura mountains. The drive to the place was worth it. There were no telephone signals and there was a very bleak wifi. Not bad to just observe silence and connect with nature. With the resort basically being tucked in on a mountain, and near a waterfall, TataSky was going to have some problems coming properly. That was our only connection to the outside world, and when it rained the TataSky looked like a 1990’s video streaming on a dial up connection. The disconnection to the distraction of the modern world was well set up. I did not quite mind the situation, as I went over to the restaurant to have lunch.

Our room at Kurumba Village Resort-Kurumbadi-Tamilnadu
Our room at Kurumba Village Resort-Kurumbadi-Tamilnadu

As I sat there, gorging the hara bhara kebabs, the clouds were floating right above me, since the restaurant has this edge-of-a-cliff feeling. My son gasped at the size of the mountains, even as he was enjoying his meals, looking at the uniquely designed fork that was glistening against the table with its art form. After a long lunch, we just preferred to stare at the clouds and the mountains, as the evening light faded and the rain started to pour. Life was beautiful.

 

Edge of the Cliff Dining-Kurumba Village Resort-Kurumbadi-Tamilnadu
Edge of the Cliff Dining-Kurumba Village Resort-Kurumbadi-Tamilnadu

 

Read more in Part-2 of the adventure. If you cant wait, and need a little highlights reel on what to expect in the other parts, do watch this video

 

Cost of Staying

The resort is priced above 12,000 INR onwards on its rooms, and it differs depending on the room type. Browse through their website to book directly

To get to Kurumba Village, its best you travel on your own in your vehicle. Whether you travel on your own or take a taxi for your rides, it should be another 6000-7000 Rs on your driving costs at the minimum. If ever you wish to be adventurous, the way to do that is to take the train at Mettupalayam and get down at HillGrove, and trek down into the Kurunji flower areas, cross a little waterfall hoping you dont slip, and you will find yourself in 20 minutes at the resort. I dropped my S7 Edge into the waterfall, but thankfully my phone can remain in water undisturbed.

Best Time to Go

There is no best time for a place steeped in the hills, but if you can just before the Europeans come here for their winter season (Dec-February), the resort is flush with the freshness of the onset of the North East Monsoon(Oct-Nov) and the Pre monsoon showers (June-September)

Getting There

From Chennai– You could take the train 12671 to Mettupalayam via Coimbatore and then take a taxi from there to the resort. If you are flying down, take a taxi from the Peelamedu airport in Coimbatore.

From Bangalore-The best way is to drive, through Mysore and Gudalur into Ooty, Coonor and then Kurumbadi, but if you dont prefer the hills, you can drive through Salem, Erode, Avinashi keeping the ghat roads to a minimum of 14 kilometres. For those flying or taking a train, you need to come to Coimbatore to then take a taxi.

From anywhere else in India-Fly in to Coimbatore and take a taxi/train to Mettupalayam

The resort has only BSNL signals, so if you have anything else, it makes sense to call the resort from Mettupalayam/Coonor for directions, as there is no easy signboard to spot on your left, where you need to make a V shaped turn down the valley. If you are not sure how to drive down or drive up a hill, it helps if you can drive in 1st gear or get a driver who is at ease with driving in the hilly regions.

In search of Kumbakonam’s Famed ‘Degree Coffee”

I make the transition from the 4th to the 5th gear, when I see signs of Kumbakonam Degree Coffee on the Chennai-Bangalore highway near Kanchipuram. The Coffee that they serve is usually passable, to the point that it helps you refresh on a car ride, and then you get back to driving. While I have seen spurious copies of the Kumbakonam Degree Kaapi, I always wondered whether I would anytime be able to amble by for an original filter coffee/Degree Coffee at Kumbakonam. I found an opportunity recently, and I thought I should get to the right place to have the coffee. So I set out in an auto from the bus stand to the Venkkatramana Hotel, which I was told was the best place to sample the ‘Degree Kaapi’

What is the Degree Kaapi? Why is it called so?

Degree Coffee in a Brass Dabara-Kumbakonam
Degree Coffee in a Brass Dabara-Kumbakonam

Coffee is a mix of Decoction and Milk, and the Degree Coffee is basically using the first decoction of the day, with boiled milk at a particular temperature around 110 degrees (and hence the ‘Degree’ in the name). The first decoction is also sometimes called as the first degree. Quora has an interesting thread, that also says that chicory was mis-pronunced as Tikery and that came to be known as degree. The decoction comes from the Arabica and Robusta Coffee beans. Apparently Coffee came to India from Yemen in the 1600’s and the Coffee at Venkkatramana hotel comes through ‘Mohan Coffee Works’ which makes the powder, after sourcing it from the hilly tracts of Chikmaglur in Karnataka.

People queing up for Coffee Powder at Mohan Coffee Works-Kumbakonam
People queing up for Coffee Powder at Mohan Coffee Works-Kumbakonam

WikiPedia also mentions this on Filter coffee- ”¬†The upper cup is loaded with freshly ground coffee. The grounds are then compressed (i.e., tamped) with the stemmed disc into a uniform layer across the cup’s pierced bottom. The coarser the coffee grinds, the more one has to tamp the coffee to retain the same extraction. With the press disc left in place, the upper cup is nested into the top of the tumbler and boiling water is poured inside. The lid is placed on top, and the device is left to slowly drip the brewed coffee into the bottom. The chicory holds on to the hot water a little longer, letting the water dissolve and extract more of the coffee grinds.

The resulting brew is generally much stronger than Western drip/filter coffee, and often stronger than even espresso.”

Where is Kumbakonam?

Kumbakonam is a temple town in Tamil Nadu by the Cauvery river known for its temples. It’s also the hometown of the famous mathematician Ramanujam. Kumbakonam plays host to the ‘Mahamaham’ which is held once in 12 years (very similar to the Maha Kumbha Mela with a rythmic 12 year cycle)

Kumbakonam- 6 hours away from Chennai (Tamil Nadu)
Kumbakonam- 6 hours away from Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

In Search of the ‘Degree Kaapi’

I figured out that there were 4-5 places one could go to for sampling the ‘Degree Coffee’ in Kumbakonam. There is Murali’s Cafe, Krishna Bhavan, Mangaleshwara Cofee Hotel and Venkkatramana Hotel if you want to have the Coffee directly. If you want to take home some memories there is Venus Coffee Shop and Mohan Coffee Works. I chose the last hotel in each of¬† lists, as I was recommended this by the local auto-driver

The auto driver taking me through Kumbakonam
The auto driver taking me through Kumbakonam

I hear the first destination to sample the Coffee was 10 minutes away. The auto driver, drove with an air of superiority as if he was the crowned prince who was steaming down his private road, passionately muttering things about the little lanes we pass by. I also hear him put together a temple package for the evening. I nod my head and say, we’l see. As it turns out he chose to assist me filming at the venue, in return for some coffee and tiffin.

Route from Kumbakonam Bus Stand to Venkkatramana Hotel
Route from Kumbakonam Bus Stand to Venkkatramana Hotel

Venkkatramana Hotel- Go For the Coffee

We met the Venkkatrama hotel’s proprietor who tells me about the history of how the Pasumpon Coffee Club used to have fresh cow’s milk early in the morning and how that used to lend a special taste as the decoction added was the first one. Usually the taste withers off with the second and third decoction, and that’s where the difference in taste happens. The earliest person to make this was Panchapakesa Iyer, who used to own cows and start making the first brew available at his Lakshmi Vilas hotel as early as 5 am. Over time, there have been more people from the Iyer community of Tamil Nadu who have set up shops, but there are only a few in operation, including the Venkkatramana hotel.

Do watch him and my experience with the Degree Coffee in the below video.

 

K-Balachandran-Proprietor of Venkkatramana Hotel
M-Balachandran-Proprietor of Venkkatramana Hotel

Post the ‘Degree Kaapi’ experience at Venkkatramana hotel, I proceeded to Mohan Coffee Works to go buy some coffee back home for my father, as he loves the powder from this store.

Buying Coffee Memories for Home- Mohan Coffee Works

Coffee Machines at work-Mohan Coffee Works(Kumbakonam)
Coffee Machines at work-Mohan Coffee Works(Kumbakonam)
Route to Mohan Coffee Works from Kumbakonam Bus Stand
Route to Mohan Coffee Works from Kumbakonam Bus Stand

 

The Coffee machines usually aim to ground 100 grams of the beans to around 80 grams of coffee powder. Usually this is an indication of very high quality, but its probably for the connoisseurs of this special taste of Coffee. This process is called roasting and after the heating is done, its advisable that the powder cools for 5-10 minutes, else the powder is half baked.

Chicory is added for colour before the Coffee powder is lapped by customers. However the beauty of the ‘Degree Kaapi’ is the heating up of the un-diluted milk to 110 degrees, and then mixing it with pre-heated decoction

I signed off from Kumbakonam, after making my bag pregnant with 4 packets of Coffee powder, and promised to come back for more to explore this little town. I am interested to go to the nearby temples on my own pace, and I hope to come back to Kumbakonam to just be able to do that over the weekend.

 

 

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